The craft of cutting diamonds is one that is always pushing forward and progressing. Gemcutters are always looking for new ways to make diamonds more visually perfect and to make the most of their natural characteristics. Hearts and Arrows is one such phenomenon that people fall for when buying diamonds but don’t truly know much about. Sometimes marketed as Hearts On Fire, these are a specialist form of round brilliant cut diamonds that display an excellent example of diamond symmetry.

What do hearts and arrows look like?

Hearts and arrows can only be viewed by a specialist viewer, such as an ASET-scope or Ideal-scope. These viewers emit coloured reflectors and allow the view to see how much light is entering and exiting the light at the proper angles. The way the light exits the diamond will be determined by the arrangement of the facets, and the symmetry of the angles. When viewed from below, heart shapes are visible through the pavilion, and when viewed from above, arrow shapes are seen radiating across the table and crown. Certain settings will render the effects almost invisible, yet people still favour the hearts and arrows cut.

How rare are hearts and arrows diamonds?

Since the rise in popularity of this particular type of diamond cut, jewellers have been favouring the higher quality cuts, which can only be a good thing for diamond buyers. Hearts and arrows typically create around 15% more waste than lower standard cuts. As customers become more educated about everything from diamond shape to diamond cut, jewellers are forced to respond with higher quality diamonds.

So, are hearts and arrows worth it?

Hearts and arrows aren’t an officially recognised characteristic, so if you are purchasing one then you must be aware that this is a case of marketing and it won’t be included in the certificate. However, it’s worth noting that hearts and arrows are a good indicator of symmetry in the facets. In blind tests, most people cannot tell the difference between a round brilliant cut diamond and a hearts and arrows diamond, it’s really more of a case of wanting a technically perfect diamond. Not all diamonds with hearts and arrows will have a high quality cut, so it’s important to prioritise the cut over any marketing terms.